The arrival of the last ship around midnight has always provoked different reactions. On the one side there’s the hustle of the island hoppers who are tired after hours on the sea and in need of rest; on the other side, the bus drivers take it easy smoking cigarettes. On the paralia and in the side streets, there are those who are just beginning to enjoy the night, drinking raki. Other people, from a roof terrace, look down at the charade listening to Crosstown Traffic.
Restoration works? For years now, the Riace Bronzes have been hidden from the general public with this justification. But the truth is quite different: one of them ran away and sought refuge in the hot sands of Aghios Prokopios. The runaway Bronze spends his days on the beach (swimming, surfing, etc. etc.) and his evenings between a glass of ouzo and one of raki.
Climbing up the trail of Cape Agios Prokopios and leaving behind the rocks on which lies part (top) of the wreck of a Dutch merchant ship foundered in the early Eighties as well as enjoying an excellent view on the village of Stelida, a Norwegian small enclave in the Aegean, and on Paros, you may come across an unusual stone wall between two huge boulders. The construction is clearly recent . It evokes, however, an ancient place of worship. Protected from the wind, which often hits this stretch of wild coast whose beauty is almost untouched (many lovers reach this place to enjoy under the stars the fires of passion, not necessarily summer passions), you can linger a while in meditation observing the surge of the white waves breaking against the sharp rocks. Or, if yesterday night’s raki is still flowing despite a long swim (1 km a day keeps the doctor away!), you can fantasize about ancient gods who would have a lot to teach about wine and excess to the craziest rock stars& rockers. The archaeological remains on the island would suggest the name of Dionysus for the improvised ritual. The blazing sun, slightly mitigated by the northwest wind, advises against alcohol. Better then to play with memory and find the rustic and gently aggressive taste of glasses sipped under the moonlight. Even better, have a guitar handy or, if you are not so confident with actual playing, rely on a convenient digital reader. After a long sip of water, it’s time to press the PLAY button. While your skin basks in the sun, the music will let your mind travel back in time and the memory of the raki’s flavor will make you feel for a moment like a god on earth. Naxos can do this.
At Naxos, when the sun sets behind the wavy shape of Paros it’s time to sit down with a bunch of friends in a taverna – you choose the one you prefer as long as it is a REAL taverna and not a disguised fast food. The culinary choices are many and for every taste, including vegetarian (zucchini balls, stuffed aubergines & tomatoes), but you cannot miss, as long as your chosen diet allows it, of course, a fleshy tentacle of grilled octopus accompanied by a glass of ouzo. At the end of dinner, before a good cup of coffee (and maybe a cocktail – we particularly like Black russian) in a bar on the paralia which takes its name from a famous greek philosopher (the one who went around carrying a lantern, looking for Man), do not forget a shot of raki, the famous brandy from Crete. And if you ever run into a talkative and barefoot host who looks like Dave Grohl of the Foo Fighters, be prepared for a joyful alcoholic marathon… and postpone your coffee hour!
naxosisthebest 